Niche: When the guest does not get to choose it can still be very good

Door

december 13, 2018

Krognamn is no easy thing. Proprietor Claes Björling has after more than a decade later changed the name of its restaurant on the Dalagatan, which was started in the spring of 2012 with staff from the F12 and Esperanto. The old Smörgåstårteriet, a name that was unusual but fun, has become Niche. Köksbemanningen is intact, but now ask no longer for cakes. Good in many ways. For example, foreign tourists henceforth pronounce krognamnet (which is verging on the only norwegians who mastered østkantmål and bredt Fold-case managed on the smörgåstårtetiden).

the Ambitions remain at the same level.

the narrow local on the Dalagatan, with grey and yellow eknyanser where small branches placed in the väggnischer, is tight and textilfattig. The acoustics thus fragile. To the protocol can Krogkommissionen however, note that the noisy bunch belongs to the exceptions. The niche is a dining room there rather konverserande spouses and fairly well-off dating couple looking for fine dining. In the neighbourhood is rustic kroggrannar as Wasahof and Tennstopet where noise levels are higher.

Creamy eggs in the broth. Photo: Krogkommissionen

On the Niche, served currently only a sexrättersmeny + amuser for 755 sek, vinpaketen related commands 695. The model is a trend that KK is seen to spread among Stockholm’s restaurants. All the more better eateries now offer only långsittningar with fixed menus and selected wine by the glass. It was previously the preserve of the very top prisskiktet, but now there are also menus for the mid. The grip has its advantages and disadvantages:

limits the unambiguous clientele, it is rarely to pop in for a quick bite without a reservation and with scant wallet, you can’t choose what it wants to consume. On the other hand, provides the menus, the kitchen a chance to show how to think about the meal as a whole. An opportunity to demonstrate the breadth of color and form.

A Niche-sitting begins with a oannonserad appetizers, here in the form of a baked 63-degree Dahlgrenskt eggs in a perfect consistency immersed in a cup of deliciously rich, possibly a bit salty, the broth on the pork or klangrikt smoky mackerel. The saltiness does its job, and will trigger your appetite in an exemplary way.

the Tight interior of the Niche. Photo: Krogkommissionen

A black tartelette should be eaten with the hands can be filled with a cream of celeriac with a löjromsklutt on top, topped with an apple and a few thin slices of pickled celeriac. Clean and good – and a first example of the exemplary rotsakshantering that Niche right now. Kalixrommen can also land in the company of smulat rye bread that crispy effect.

Maybe could make up praoelev with the innocent taste buds get assist with avsmakningen?

A glasbakad, cured, flounder, is worn out with a green citronverbena, lovely musselskum and pickled kohlrabi. It is a successful right, but at one time cooked on a fish that died saltdöden. (Many chefs develops immunity against salt – KK has been difficult to see any remedy, but perhaps could a dilute praoelev with the innocent taste buds get assist with avsmakningen?)

a serving of two small parts: a deep fried shell of the jerusalem artichoke, filled with a mild seaweed caviar, grated truffle and a couple of green leaves accompanied by a small, tasty tartar of red deer to the american soy. Extraordinarily delicious. The next meat dish, duck breast, and of good quality, combined with butter fried portobellosvamp al dente, a cream of parsley root and a piece of fried bread with duck liver mousse and peach. A particularly stylish cut, and a successful flavour combination. Just as good becomes a collection of thin nötbitar interspersed with svamputsnitt placed in a gorgeous broth of smoked mackerel.

jerusalem artichokes with truffles, and kronhjortstartar. Photo: Krogkommissionen

Of the six ordinary cafes is two desserts. White chocolate mousse lands on the table with a small ball päronsorbet and a caramel sauce with the rich taste of miso. There are distinct and well separated flavors that still fit well together. In particular, kolan goes home with some KK members, mison reduces the most intrusive slisket but retains efterrättssötman.

Very grannast in the last menu is undoubtedly still björnbärsvariationen with the thinnest imaginable to the deep red bärsegel above, an allocation illgrön granolja. As a conclusion, we eat at a different time lavendelkokta blackberry with a kaksmul on almonds, puffed rice and olive oil. A beautiful structure, but at this point, is normalgästen so measured to the last the calories are difficult to enjoy.

responsive uppassade on the Niche. the the Staff, friendly and relaxed, delivering just enough and knowledgeable information. The secure vinvalen is another reason to visit this dining room next to the Vasaparkens the eastern side. A pinot noir from the organic farm Weingut Eymann in Palz, respectively, in 2016 the Clos Roussely sauvignon blanc is together with the house’s earthy, fruity mosler-tokaji from Királyudvar three strong arguments for a visit.

It was very many moons ago KK was on a mellanpriskrog with such precision in the meeting with the beverage.