Her hands still display the scars of her rich career as a climber and mountaineer, but it is to her small publishing house, which is celebrating its tenth anniversary, that Catherine Destivelle mainly dedicates her energy today. At 63 spring, the one who distinguished herself from the 80s in numerous exploits, notably a solo winter “trilogy” on the north face of the Eiger, at the Grandes Jorasses, then at the Matterhorn, now climbs more willingly “with friends in unknown places. Catherine Destivelle co-signed a thick album to be released on October 12, Once upon a time climbing, a comic strip which traces the history of the discipline while promising to “make its readers dizzy”. The book, co-published by his house, Editions du Mont-Blanc and by Les Arènes, was presented during the climbing fair which was held Friday and Saturday in Grenoble.

Also read 1992: Catherine Destivelle on the north face of the Eiger

Printed in large quantities, it rides on the popularity of climbing. The number of practitioners in France is now estimated to be around 2 million, and the industry specializing in the manufacture of carabiners, ropes, clothing and equipment for gyms is booming. In the 70s, “when I started, there were no (climbing) shoes in my size. It’s really changed. There were few women and climbing was confidential,” recalls the champion whose career was rewarded in 2020 with a prestigious distinction, the Piolet d’or. “I’m amazed by this enthusiasm and I think it’s great,” she says. “It does a lot of good for people, it’s fun (…) We forget everyday life, it clears our heads, it’s super pleasant. And it’s a sport that gets the whole body moving.”

It was in 2013 that Catherine Destivelle, after having already written several books such as “Danseuse de roc” or “Rock queen”, decided to launch her own publishing house, at the foot of the giant of the same name near Chamonix. With climbing and mountains as its editorial line, approached in particular from a historical angle, a niche that it describes as “niche”. “The idea is to discover and put your finger on what motivates a mountaineer or a climber. It has to be well told and inspire,” she explains. “And it’s not easy, publishing, whatever the sector,” underlines the adventurer boss, saying she is “afloat” but admits to supplementing her income by regularly giving conferences in companies. “I’m independent, after that it’s passion and a lot of work. I didn’t know I was capable of working so much behind a desk!” she laughs. Some 120 titles have emerged in ten years, ranging from children’s books to stories, climbing manuals and beautiful books, including thrillers with evocative titles like 100,000 dollars for Everest in the so-called Mont-Blanc Noir collection. .

In the front row to observe the “dramatic” melting of the surrounding glaciers, she nevertheless prefers not to directly deal with the theme of global warming in her collections. “I don’t have the writers for this and I don’t know how to approach it. Lots of publishers do it, I stay in my niche,” she explains. She also says she is concerned not to “burden” young people who are already “very worried”. “On the other hand, I tell them “don’t leave any trace in the mountains, not a piece of paper, not a fire”.” She also salutes the ethics of new generations of mountaineers who strive “to have as little impact as possible and reduce their carbon footprint as much as possible”. However, it is not kind to those who, under the eye of the media, set a series of speed records on the highest peaks of the Himalayas by using helicopters and fixed ropes to facilitate their ascent, a heresy for purists. “It’s a great performance but it’s not mountaineering,” she concludes with a touch of anger.