[because of the current situation linked to the epidemic of coronavirus, the opening dates of the monuments and institutions mentioned in the article are likely to change for the year 2020.]
facing south but west, as we say in the preamble Lisbon is not a Mediterranean. It is, in Europe, which received in the first depressions from the Atlantic. It is therefore beaten by the winds, whipped by the waves, and copiously watered by the rain. This cocktail refreshing – sort of Brittany southern — born singular light, dazzling, whose brightness cannot leave you indifferent. A light vibrant slap to the point of blindness on the small cobblestones, white shiny by the time of the famous calçada portuguesa, the signature of the Portuguese capital. And even if Lisbon is covered with vibrations trendy that buffet and the décoiffent in recent years, impassive, she remains resolutely nonchalant. A tempo that could be called sweetness of life, because it annihilates any manifestation of stress.
In all seasons, Lisbon offers a change of scenery and easy proximity. The summers are hot and windy (a heat rises in the afternoon and became stronger throughout the day with cool evenings. Spring begins early in February (flowering almond, jasmine etc). Spring and autumn can be very rainy. The winter is mild and wet.
read also : The Jeronimos monastery to Saint George’s castle, the sites of the must-sees of LisbonneL’arrival
The airport is in the city. Built in the 1940s at a time when Lisbon was concentrated in its historic centre, the airport was outside of the capital. Today Lisbon is extended and landing, low flying above the rooftops thrills a few passages. Because it literally flies over the capital to the point of being able to count the green spaces and almost spot the rooftops of the first appetizer. The advantage of this thrill from home is that in a few minutes (20 to 30) you will have returned to his hotel, or foot-to-earth of lisbon. The Lisboa Card gives unlimited access to public transport (metro, tram, bus, elevadors, included train to go to Cascais or Sintra), and museums or historical monuments or twenty places. This sesame exists in version, 24, 48 or 72 hours (20 €, 34 €, 42 €). It is available online or in the metro stations (including the airport), at the Palácio Foz (Praça dos Restauradores) and in the Lisbon Welcome Center (Praça do Comércio).
In this moment
TO SEE
This year Lisbon will be celebrating the 100 years of Amália Rodrigues (1920-1999), mythical figure of fado. The opportunity to visit his house with its charming garden with a small coffee. You can admire all the scenes required of the diva and into his room full of god stuff, his kitchen, the cupboards still filled. Everything is intact. His parrot still lives in the house and it’s taken out daily to the garden on his perch !
Casa-Museu Amália Rodrigues, R. São Bento 193. Tel. +351 213 971 896
TABLE
Feitoria is a gourmet restaurant with exclusive cuisine of the distinguished author, with a star by the Michelin Guide. João Bessone
Feitoria , by João Rodrigues, crowned with a Michelin star. With its menu Matéria, the head shiny makes them a vibrant tribute in Portugal, a land in the ocean. It works on the products as materials. Food for thought. A work of exploration and maturation that is driven by a high requirement. This all takes place at the edge of the river Tagus, in the neighbourhood of the Great Discoveries.
Feitoria, Hotel Altis Belem, Doca do Bom Sucesso, 1400-038, Lisbon. Tel. : +351 210 400 200.
The HOTEL with a VIEW
Freshly reopened after a renovation and especially a magnification result, the Hotel Bairro Alto is now a whole block of houses in the heart of the historic centre. Discreet charm and elegance. But mostly we find its sublime terrace, which is now reserved exclusively for its guests. A privilege which one cannot get tired as the view over the river Tagus and the rooftops of the city, is hypnotic.
Bairro Alto Hotel Praça Luís de Camões 2, 1200-243 Lisbon. Tel. : +351 21 340 82 88.
DAY 1 : OVER THE river TAGUS
Morning
And why not take advantage of the morning to enjoy a terrace in Alfama ? adobe isotck
We will be awakened by the singing of the birds or the rooster ! Because Lisbon is full of small city gardens hosting all kinds of birds. Hence its air of village. With the tidal wave of tourism, Lisbon is witnessing a phenomenon : the multiplication of places for breakfast and brunch to host the tourist who has opted for a rental (so no eating breakfast) or the one who likes to prolong or to repeat the deliciousness of the first meal of the day. The Lisbon is also converted to this mode. Even if traditionally it will take to counter a strong coffee or a galão (coffee served with lots of milk in a tall glass), all accompanied by a pão de Deus (bread of God), big bun coconut served sliced in two with a slice of cheese, or of course a famous pastel de nata (the tart with the cream iconic). We will choose the Coffee Boavida , for its selection demanding organic and local, its tranquility, its homemade cakes and colouring the retro of this old grocery store. If you miss the appointment the morning you can sit down in the evening for a glass of wine and a live jazz or bossa-nova. Other option 100 % lisbon : take his coffee in one of the many kiosks 1900 that brighten plazas (Praça das flores, Príncipe Real, Praça Luís de Camões, etc). Micro outdoor cafes precursors of street food and other food trucks, they are an essential rendez-vous for locals.
lunch Break
MAAT is the new cultural project of the city of Lisbon, which focuses on three areas : art, architecture, and technology. Hufton+Crow
Breathe the sea air and take a breath of air is without a doubt one of the greatest pleasures of this trip. We jumped on a bike rented from BikeIberia two steps from the train station Cais do Sodré and on file nose to the wind at the edge of the Tagus river ! Direction Of Belém. On the way stop arty to the Maat (Museu de Arte, Arquitectura e Tecnologia), sublime white wave designed by the british architect Amanda Levete. Then we will install the feet in the water terrace Margem , in the container glass and alluré for a fresh salad, a platter of charcuterie or cheese, or a dish of cod – first encounter with a classic. It is especially the opportunity of contemplating at leisure the so-called the Sea of straw, watching the sailboats go by and the bridge of 25th of April soar above the river, with its air of Golden Gate Bridge of which it is the little brother. The Tower of Belém is at the end of the wharf, and the monastery Jerónimos a few steps. We will take first the time to stop in front of the Monument to the Discoveries , huge caravelle sculpted hymn to the grandeur of the past of Portugal. Because the soil map of the floor will give you ideas in order. A round-the-world at a glance for a small revision express the epic Portuguese maritime. The opportunity to realize the extent to which the people of mariners discovered the entire world ! Galvanized by the spirit of adventure we explore the botanical garden of Belém , dip tropical in the conservatory of species reported of the ex-colonies.
afternoon
Pastéis de Belém, the pause gourmande is a mandatory of the day in Belém. Pastéis de Belém
out of this botanical expedition one puts you on the path to the Pastéis de Belém a few meters from the gate of the garden. Here since 1837 are manufactured every day thousands of cakes according to a recipe kept secret. In these first 24 hours we have experienced the call of the wide and the appeal of the sugar ! We will, therefore, have sailed in the footsteps of the Portuguese, who brought the sugar and the cinnamon to the end of the world, the two major ingredients of pastéis de nata.
Aperitif and dinner
With its breathtaking view, the Park bar is the perfect place to stay when a trip to Lisbon. Park Account / Facebook
A place is needed for the aperitif : the Park , so named because on the top floor of a parking garage. A hanging garden as the rooftop and a great view : the 25th of April bridge, Christ the Tagus river. To see Lisbon surround pink in the setting sun, watching the swallows twirl in the sky and breathe the fragrance of eternity. We could feed on love and fresh water as the contemplation of all this beauty is a source of contentment. But the cocktail menu will take you back to considerations over land. It is also a time to sit at the table. And for your first dinner, a table of local color is required. Your choice : Faz Frio , a restaurant centenary reopened under the leadership of a young man under 30 years of age who operates the national directory with a twist today. The cocktail bar allows you to wait before a table is available, as no reservations and Faz Frio is stormed. Alfaia , 100 % typical provides an overview of the Portuguese gastronomy – meat (black pork) and fish, seafood (sea bream, bar, cod, octopus, etc). His version petiscos (tapas in Portuguese), is used in the Garrafeira Alfaia, small wine bar stack in front. In the outgoing table, propelled in the flow of lively streets, it takes from the outset the temperature of the Bairro Alto, a district of night is highly festive start to shake after dinner.
Evening
It is time to answer the call of the night ! Lisbon is a capital of the holiday. A celebration good-natured, democratic beyond all codes, sectarianism and other affectations. In other words get out in the outfit you want with who you want ! A lightness and a tolerance infinitely relaxing. We may as well drink a drink under the stars at Casa Independente in the area of Intendente. A large house with private rooftop terraces and patio under the arbor, open to all by two girls of the night who have made their weapons in London, Favela Chic and the Saatchi Gallery. We go to the living room converted into a dance floor for the sounds chaloupés brazilians, cape verdeans and tinged with electro. Closing at 2 in the morning, stack the time for spinning at Lux , temple irreplaceable of the night on the edge of the river Tagus, for more than 25 years. It is here that the best international DJ’s, occur. And it is also what makes say that Lisbon is the ” new Berlin “. On these considerations, we will watch the sun rise from the roof.
DAY 2 : WANDERINGS, PRAYERS, AND baked goods
Morning
Miaroduro da Graça. Turismo de Lisboa
What to do after a short night and a first day intense ? Relax. To practice the contemplation, high dose primary activity to which Lisbon invites. It will install in the terrace at the kiosk of the miradouro de Santa Catarina. You will order a coffee and a bolo de arroz (a small cake made from rice flour) and it will plunge the eyes into the Tagus river, which extends down or in a gentle reverie. And we will then decide to wander around, pushing the door of the churches and convents : the Santa Catarina of S in o Roque with his cohort of angels, or the Convento dos Cardaes , a little gem in the confidential of the Seventeenth century who resisted the earthquake of 1755. Its chapel is of a magnificence unheard of. Of the gold and ceramics in profusion. We will continue this walk from miradouro in miradouro, these esplanades deploying points of view to cut the breath on the city. On the way to the miradouro de Graça we will make a stop at the Convent of St Vincent , which is home to a series of Fables from The Fountain tiles. We will climb on the roof to gain height and fly over the river Tagus.
lunch Break/afternoon
The neighbourhood of Lx Factory in Lisbon is an old textile factory Portuguese that has been converted into a small village. Fernando Mendes
Change of scenery ! Farewell to the gold, the splendor and the historical monuments ! Take the pulse of another Lisbon, post-industrial Lx Factory. Lx which is the abbreviation of Theisbonne, to say The chick. Of both sides of an alley of warehouses and factories converted into cafes, restaurants, bars, concept stores. We déjeunera in a former canteen worker Cantina Lx before entering the temple reading from the book Ler Devagar installed in a former printing works. To be a cathedral of books from floor to ceiling in the middle of the rotary. Pause to taste and savour the famous chocolate cake of Landeau Chocolate , mono-product to the success of this café and tea room. We will end in beauty, and at the top to Rio Maravilha , a rooftop bar under the influence of the brazilian, whose view embraces the city. A farewell in heaven in Lisbon with in the line of sight of the statue of the Cristo Rei , as in Rio. Lisbon-gateway to the exotic. A so close !
address Book
GOOD food
To Margem, Avenida de Brasília, Doca do Bom Sucesso. Tel. : +351 918 620 032.
Coffee Boavida, Rua do Poço dos Negros, 119. Tel. : .+351 912 109 967.
Cantina Lx, R. Rodrigues de Faria 103. Tel. : +351 21 362 8239.
Landeau Chocolate, Lx Factory, Rua Rodrigues Faria, 103. Tel. : +351 917 278 939.
Pastéis de Belém, Rua de Belém, 84-92. Tel. : +351 213 637 423.
Faz Frio, Rua Dom Pedro V, 96. Tel. : + 351 215 814 296.
Alfaia, Travessa da Queimada. Tel. : +351 21 346 1232.
Garrafeira Alfaia, Rua do Diário de Notícias, 125. Tel. : + 351 213 433 079.
go OUT, DRINK A GLASS
Park, Calçada do Combro, 58, 6th floor. Tel. : +351 215 914 011.
Rio Maravilha, Lx Factory, Rua Rodrigues Faria, 103. Tel. : +351 966 028 229.
Casa Independente, Largo do Intendente Pina Potholder, 45,
Tel. : +351 218 872 842.
LuxFrágil, Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, Armazém A, Cais da Pedra a Santa Apolónia. Tel. : +351 218 820 890.
WHERE to SLEEP ?
Facade of the Verride Palácio de Santa Catarina. Verride Palácio de Santa Catarina / Photo press
Memmo Alfama Hotel, Lisbon, Travessa Merceeiras, 27. Tel. : +351 210 495 660.
Verride Palácio de Santa Catarina, Rua Santa Catarina, 1. Tel. : + 351 211 573 055.
Valverde Hotel, Avenida da Liberdade, 164. Tel. : + 351 210 940 300.
Pestana Palace, Rua Jau, 54, Santo Amaro. Tel. : +351 213 615 600.
The Vintage Hotel & Spa, Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca, 2. Tel. : +351 210 405 400.
SHOPPING
D’olival, the selection of olive oils and derivatives, Rua Poiais de São Bento, 81. Tel. : +351 963 374 811.
Bookstore Ler Devagar, R. Rodrigues de Faria 103. Tel. : +351 21 325 9992.
Lx Factory, Rua Rodrigues Faria, 103. Tel. : +351 213 259 992.
Embaixada, THE concept store in Lisbon, housed in a moorish palace, Praça do Príncipe Real, 26. Tel. : +351 965 309 154.
TO
Dragging in her suitcase, a windbreaker, sunscreen (sunburn even in the middle of winter), a sweater (summer nights cool, heat shock insured after a day burning) and a pair of sneakers (ban heels under penalty of ending in the er with an ankle stride because of the steep rolling hills and small cobblestones ultra-slippery).
GO THERE
With the Tap (0820.319.320). 7 daily flights from Paris, 3 from Lyon, 2 from Marseille, Toulouse and Nice, 1 starting at Bordeaux and Nantes.
The main tourist offices in Lisbon.
The editorial team conseilleAlentejo, a few days beyond the Tagus, beyond the tempsPalácio Belmonte, Lisbon: the expert opinion of the “Figaro”Of the beds of insiders : AlmaLusa, an embassy lisboèteSujetsLisbonnePortugalvoyageidée week-endcity guideTourismeeuropeAucun commentaireASTYANAX68le 08/06/2020 08:35
Pastel de nata ? Pastéis de nata…A Visit to the royal palace, superb and little visited-the monastery of Jerónimos. A take a day to go to Cintra, stopping to visit the royal palace of Queluz…a direct train from Lisbon train station..
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