Joe Easley takes his duties as a guide seriously. At the Mangatepopo parking lot, he gathers the small group of hikers who want to cross the Tongariro volcanic plateau with him and his teammate Jasmin Langer.
“If there is a bang on the way, please first look in the air for rocks that could fly towards you,” he warns. “If a lava flow then pours into the valley, the mountain opposite offers salvation.” That sounds very dramatic.
When the group, made up of people from different countries, looked at him questioningly, he smiled: “Well, an eruption is highly unlikely, but statistically it’s long overdue. After all, we are in the most active volcanic area in New Zealand.”
Even before he distributes the packed lunches and hiking sticks, there follows a brief excursion into the history of New Zealand’s first national park, which has existed since 1887. A Maori legend surrounding the Tongariro volcano in the middle of New Zealand’s North Island dates back to the 14th century. One of their priests was caught in a snowstorm while climbing the volcanic mountains. In order not to freeze to death, according to legend, he called on the gods of his original homeland “Hawaiki” for help.
They heard his pleas and sent him fire demons, who saved him from certain death and at the same time unleashed the volcanic elemental forces in the entire region, says the legend. Since then, the mountains and lakes around Mount Tongariro have been sacred sites for the Maori.
Those in the group who took the chance to take a bird’s-eye view of the volcanic plateau in one of Mountain Air’s two Cessnas the day before have some idea of the challenges of the trail ahead.
The three active volcanoes Tongariro (1968 meters), Ngauruhoe (2291 meters) and the country’s highest volcano, the Ruapehu with 2797 meters, are located on a high plateau together. They form the southern end of a 2500 km long volcanic chain that is part of the Pacific Ring of Fire.
At just under 20 kilometers, the tour may not seem long. But the altitude profile is challenging: almost 1200 meters in altitude have to be mastered. The official website of the alpine hiking trail recommends a “high level of fitness”. It takes seven to eight hours to get there.
From the starting point at the end of Mangatepopo Road to Soda Springs, long stretches of boardwalks lead through alpine wet meadows. Guide Jasmin Langer gets the group in the right mood for the hours to come during this rather easy first 90 minutes of walking.
The German works for the tour operator “Adrift Outdoors” and knows the route in different weather conditions. So far there hasn’t been a tour that hasn’t thrilled her anew. The landscape makes you aware of how much power is in the elementary elements of our earth, she says with respect.
It is an area that teaches humility towards nature. As reflected in Maori legends. “The Maori see something so spiritual and magical in all the mountains, volcanoes, rivers and forests,” says the tour guide. “It’s hard not to fall in love with their passionate and spirited stories.”
The Maori’s particularly close connection to nature must also be respected during the hike. “We only leave our footprints, and what we bring back is limited to snapshots taken with a camera,” she says.
Past the Soda Springs, the trail exits the Mangatepopo Valley, carved by Ice Age glaciers. It gets steeper. The path to the South Crater winds its way up the Devil’s Staircase.
It gets too much for the first: two Chinese hikers and an Australian couple turn back after the first few steps and miss the natural spectacle on the crater plateau. Dense wafts of fog move across the lunar landscape covered with pumice stone. Occasionally, shadowy hikers appear. You feel as if you are in an unreal, enchanted world.
After climbing the caldera rim, a terrain follows that is reminiscent of the formation of the earth’s crust in ancient times: pitch-black lava fields on one side and the almost perfectly formed volcanic cone of Ngauruhoe on the other.
Director Peter Jackson could hardly ask for a better setting when scouting locations for his film adaptation of The Lord of the Rings trilogy. The lava fields surrounding the towering volcanoes became Mordor, the dark realm of the villain Sauron, while Mount Ngauruhoe provided the template for the fire mountain Mount Doom, in whose chambers the Ring of Sauron was forged and sunk by the hobbit Frodo.
While the volcano in Tolkien’s story follows Sauron’s commands and erupts destructively at the end of the “Third Age”, the imaginary Mount Doom shows its peaceful side today when the cloud curtains surrounding it push aside from time to time. Since the last eruption in 1977, the fire-breathing mountain has taken a rest.
Mount Tongariro also seems to be in a deep sleep. “That can change quickly,” says tour guide Joe and reports on the last minor eruption of the mountain in 2012. It only lasted minutes. That was enough, however, to smash the roof of the Ketetahi shelter with boulders.
A short steep ridge leads to the highest point of the hike at Red Crater at almost 1900 meters. In the deepest ruby red, a wide opening protrudes from the cauldron, through which the lava masses were once thrown out. It smells like sulphur. In the background you can see plumes of steam rising from the Oturere Valley.
The steep descent begins on slippery scree. Again and again one inevitably pauses – because of the views of the Emerald Lakes below, the volcanoes and valleys up to the Blue Lake.
Yellow color accents join the green of the two emerald lakes when the sun sends its rays through the clouds. Then the turquoise blue of the Blue Lake begins to glow intensely.
Once at the bottom, a lunch break is announced on the shore of the lake. Dozens of hikers use the panorama for a rest and are not put off by the smell of sulfur that escapes from springs and crevices. On sunny days, thousands are out and about in the park – especially many New Zealanders who prefer to vacation at home because of the pandemic.
“Lord of the Rings” fans book special tours that lead to all film locations in the national park. The popularity of the film trilogy had led to a significant increase in admissions. This is particularly viewed critically by the Maori, whose sacred sites are being robbed of their once sublime tranquillity. Limiting access has already been considered.
Tour guide Joe looks visibly annoyed when he sees a group of hikers on the shore of Blue Lake eating their snacks there. Completely disrespectful behavior at a lake that is absolutely “tapu” (sacred) for the Maori.
As if the gods were angry too, thick clouds soon envelop the wanderers. In good weather, views of the mountains of the national park would be possible from up here, but an impenetrable gray now blocks any view. Finally the group emerges 300 meters below from the gray wall of fog.
When the sun is shining, Lake Taupo appears on the horizon. The long descent leads down over serpentines – it is a test of patience. Signs of fatigue set in, on steeper slopes the knees reported. Tour guide Jasmin motivates the group one last time with the prospect of a cold beer at the Ketetahi parking lot.
Destination: Tongariro National Park is located in the center of New Zealand’s North Island, around 340 kilometers south of Auckland.
Entry: Visitors must be fully vaccinated against Corona. A self-test is required upon arrival, and another on the fifth day of stay. In addition, you have to fill out a self-disclosure online in advance and then receive a “Traveller Pass” by email (travellerdeclaration.govt.nz/; English). The Federal Foreign Office also offers up-to-date information on its website.
Arrival: For example with Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, British Airways or Qatar Airways to Auckland, from there continue with the rental car.
When to go: The high season is in the New Zealand summer from November to April. In the New Zealand winter (May to October) you can also walk the trail, but you need appropriate equipment and should be prepared for wind, snow and possible avalanches.
Information: Portal of the New Zealand Tourism Authority (newzealand.com/de/; Tongariro Alpine Crossing: tongarirocrossing.org.nz (engl.)
Hiking has been experiencing a real boom for a number of years, including among younger people. But hiking can also be dangerous, especially if you want to climb the mountains with the wrong shoes. The right preparation is everything here, too.
Source: WELT/ Peter Haentjes
