What is the from bulgakov’s classic ”the Master and Margarita” in common with Roberto Bolanos great things about the banality of evil ”2066” and ”The pale king” – kultförfattaren David Foster Wallace’s unfinished and postironiska the depiction from the inside of the u.s. tax agency? Well, except that they are all political novels that were published posthumously, they are good neighbors to the toilet in the newly opened Voisine.

In January started the Gulddraken-prized wine bar Folii a systerkrog wall-to-wall, in the premises where the food Culture once again with the honour, the fed Söderhipsters.

Maybe work the novels as a sidoblinkning for the uninitiated, but you don’t have read a line in them to feel at home on the Voisine.

for the rustic, simple but generous French rustic kitchen, but with a modern weighting towards more vegetable dishes and some care about garnityren. The chef from the Folii ^ on the Voisine, who a few months after starting is a warm restaurant with Pariskänsla. Were it not for the sharp lighting and the avlyssningstätt placed the tables would fit also for intimate, romantic dinners.

Well.

Something to read during the visit? Photo: Krogkommissionen

For a first beer, we’re trying a saucisson (55 usd), a dozen or so discs, stored, French pork sausage, which is a shrug of the shoulders and come on a plate without the slightest fussy rimless.

Oysters and champagne usually otherwise be a winning opening on a three-course dinner. Of Voisine we will be in a good mood of the healthy molluscs roumegous fine de claire (no 3) (6 pcs 180 sek, 12 pcs 350 usd); while the slightly smaller versions served another evening is more unglamorous, and cheaper (6 for 150, 12 for 290 sek).

and the menu switch after the catch. Both haddock (210 sek) and boiled cod (225 sek), fish are of excellent quality, and in proper portions. The white fish is served in similar manner, with delicious buttered white cocobönor, a few lettuce leaves and salsa verde. Bean salad feels something uppslevad, and with fiskbiten top becomes the right quickly messy when you have on it with the cutlery.

Oysters and champagne are a winning start to the evening. Photo: Krogkommissionen

The vegetarian dishes are consistently fine. Au gratin endive (220 sek) is flavorful and perfectly balanced. Endiverna is baked to optimal umamismak and not the least bit bitter. Gratineringen with just enough gruyère and a hint of truffle enhances the right further. Fresh leafy vegetables add a crunchy texture.

It’s finally the right season for white asparagus, it serves three hearty, close the (220 sek), which despite its size is not at all tough, on top of a portion of well braised buckwheat with wild garlic, and the lovely fresh peas and broad beans.

several nice options, like the blood orange with the financier & crème diplomat (110 sek), a sweet dessert with three textures. Fillets of sweet blood orange, proffspimpad vanilla cream and almond cake. You can skip the rhubarb compote with vanilla ice cream (95 sek), and instead invest all our efforts on the Paris Brest, with the subtitle pate à choux with hazelnut cream (135 sek). It is an interesting, indeed a purely humorous piece. The airy built similar to a kålhuvud, ”choux”, and can accommodate a variety of cream that can feed several mouths.

Paris Brest – pate à choux with hazelnut cream, sek 135. Photo: Krogkommissionen

Voisine has an ambitious wine list, but only a fraction of the Foliis range, where guests can browse among 300 wines by the glass. To be a sommelierkontrollerad tavern is the wine list by the glass is surprisingly tired and uninspiring. Among the red wines available by the glass, five of the eight from France. The white glasvinerna elicit a yawn from the more – not that there is something wrong with the Petit Chablis, a white Rioja and gruner veltliner, but a bit disappointing, it feels everything with such standard works. And even if the supply of flaskviner is more exciting, it is not always you want to hit with a full bottle.

but here are too many of ”the usual suspects” – Roederer, Heidsieck, Pierre-Peters, Deutz – had it not have been nice with a couple of small producers? It is understandable that Voisine is not able to match the level of ambition of a wine bar Folii, but KK had expected a more exciting and dynamic wine list.

the Smile stiffens when you realize that a glass costs as much as the entire bottle from the importer.

another annoyance is the hutlösa switched on for those who want to drink the wine in the glass, something Voisine are not alone. Today, it is not uncommon with the quintuple increment for what a glass costs to buy in. It is particularly on the red side. One such example is the 2016 Agricola Punica Montessu from Sardegna (150 sek) – a nice blend of carignan, cabernet sauvignon and syrah – but the smile stiffens when you realize that a glass costs as much as the entire bottle from the importer. Compare with how kind you are with a bottle of 2002 Cos d’Destournel for 2.300 kr – yes, it is expensive, but not if you take into account that it would cost up to 1,500 usd in purchases.

Some of the dishes of the Voisine would benefit from more subtlety, but this is hearty cooking and we want to stress that they have mastered the art of not översalta – a kocksjuka we are happy to avoid.

It is likely to be not difficult to fill Voisines narrow local with Söderbor. Especially not if you hope for a closer cooperation between the wine bar and tavern.

Read more of Krogkommissionens tests