Up until a few years ago, there were still chocolate shops in inner cities, where you should be able to taste the origin of the cocoa like at a wine tasting. In the noughties, that fitted in with the ubiquitous incantation of the “new bourgeoisie”. Those who invested time and money in expensive bars instead of palm fat similar to chocolate could develop a certain cocoa competence. Many of those shops have since disappeared, giving way to those candy stores that pile up with glucose syrups of all shapes and colors and look forward to mutating people into instantly recognizable social classes.