Although there is no set time for each dish, it is true that summer is more open to hot soups and spoons. Summer is more open to fresher dishes. This season’s classic, cold soups, can be enjoyed in a variety of ways.
These specialties can be enjoyed on a beach visit, whether it’s for the weekend or in the summer. The coast of Granada offers products that make Andalusian dishes like gazpacho and salmorejo even more local.
Francisco Gomez Albala (chef) and Jose Munoz (ice cream maker), share a deep friendship and a long history in using subtropical ingredients in their recipes. Both in De la Flor restaurant and Daniel ice cream parlors in Almunecar. They have had many culinary encounters, resulting in dishes that were presented at numerous gastronomic events.
Francisco Gomez Albala prepares surprising cold soups at De la Flor. / ALFREDO AGUUILAR
They do it this time with two unique and innovative offerings: mango gazpacho and custard apple salmorejo. These will also be on the De la Flor menu over the next few weeks. It was the first to be awarded in a tapas competition. The unique thing about this recipe is that it only uses tomato water and not meat. Gomez Albala says that the tomato is first frozen, then drained to extract the water. Munoz also states that the crystals in the tomatoes break down the structure and fibers. The water is then extracted upon thawing. The reason the tomato flesh isn’t used is due to its “strange color”.
After this, the salmorejo ingredients are mixed -garlic oil, oil, bread, vinegar-. For presentation, an ice cream made of olive oil, pearls, or olive oil caviar can be used. Motril raw shrimp and olive oil. Francisco says that this “gives it an intense sweetness that alters the texture of the salmorejo,” and that tomato water and custard apples have a lot in common. He concluded, “It’s fun and different.”
The ingredients for the mango gazpacho are: peeled plum tomatoes and cucumbers, garlic, red onions, olive oil, apple cider vinegar, and mango pulp. “In this instance, all the ingredients are crushed simultaneously and we don’t put bread on it because the mango pulp gives it consistency.” Gomez Albala explains that she adds that “we accompany it by a burrata and sprinkle some broken pistachios on top, as the saline flavors pair very well with mango.” This is all accompanied by passion fruit ice-cream.
Munoz, also known as Joe Helaero in Almunecar, stresses that “in all our collaborations, we always use tropical products form the land, starting at kilometer zero and that’s where those ideas come from.”
There are two ways to make gazpacho and salmorejo, but the traditional method is still highly appreciated. This is La Botica in Salobrena which serves both. It also serves cold soups, including its ajoblanco, which is made with caviar. Sergio Campoy, the owner of the company, said that they do it differently than the rest because they add caviar to the traditional ingredients (garlic, bread, almonds and oil, vinegar, oil, and vinegar). It is also served with angel hair.
Francisco Gomez adds the final touches to a cold soup. / Alfredo Aguilar
His brother was the original chef at the time. It has continued to be a popular choice for tourists because of its success. It has been praised by diners who have had it, drawing attention from many others. Campoy adds, “People ask for what value you have.”
According to La Botica’s experience, both gazpacho, ajoblanco, and salmorejo can be ordered in summer to a greater or lesser extent than during the rest year. Although he says that it is easier to get in summer because of the greater public demand, he insists that it does not happen as often in winter. Visitors from Sweden, Denmark, and Germany ask for winter ajoblanco. He points out that the Spaniards are less interested and admits that gazpacho does not come out as much in summer.
Some restaurants offer cold soups all year. Others only serve them when they are in high demand. The Nuevo Arenas restaurant is a good example of this. It is located on La Herradura’s promenade and offers gazpacho only in July and august. Paqui De Haro, the owner of the restaurant, says it is a “casserole” with pepper and tomato and topped with vegetables. She assures them that there is less demand after the summer, and that in September, they will be wanting more hot dishes like soups.
Similar results can be seen with ajoblanco. This is also part the summer menu at this establishment which opened its doors in 2014. Nuevo Arenas only serves salmorejo throughout the year. It is a cold soup made with tomato, bread and olive oil.
