Alfa Romeo roars, leaving in the rear view mirror the fury of tourist Florence. And already the sublime rolling countryside unfolds on the Chantigiana, this picturesque secondary road for 70 km, winding its way to the heart of the Chianti until Siena. In the chrome grille is reflected at the most prestigious wine regions of Italy, égrainée of several charming hilltop villages, where the road signs, the urge – it is necessary to lift the foot… to set the table ! Since the kitchen from the generous land local is as exquisite as legendary. Include andiamo !
In the heart of Tuscany, the Chianti is a beautiful rural area with rolling hills billowed up between Florence and Siena. Shaped for centuries by the hand of men, an exceptional terroir – crossed by several streams – contains a mosaic of agricultural plots, where vineyards, olive groves, cereal crops and meadows for cattle play a thousand shades of green, yellow and red, under a light, very pure. Also some forests, groves and hedgerows darker to separate the cultures, while dirt roads – highlighted by cypresses – leads to old farms dry stone, enthroned on the hills… Already a source of inspiration for the artists of the Renaissance, these landscapes in a delicate and harmonious fascinate us up to emotion and is considered as many clichés that perpetuate the Italy eternal and romantic.
ancient settlements, perchésGreve in Chianti and its curious square, triangular, lined by houses with arcades. B. Pedani
Nestled on the highest hills of the Chianti region, several fortified villages reminiscent of medieval warfare between Florence and Siena for the control of this region. A rivalry always palpable, because we are still talking today of Chianti Florentine and Chianti Sienese ! Full fuel south on the Chiantigiana (SR 222), first, here is the charming market town of Greve in Chianti , including the curious square triangle is lined by houses with arcades and dominated by the statue of the explorer Giovanni da Verrazzano, a native of the cru, who discovered New York bay in 1524 ! But nothing can divert us from scents enticing of the Antica Marcelleria Falorni , cold cuts family landmark, founded in 1806. An orgy of delicious hams and sausages, which one prepares you – side bistro – dishes and sandwiches in a jiffy!
A black cock for fame mondialeEn 1924, the producers of Classico Chianti have adopted the black cock that is centered within a border round pink/red, as a symbol of high quality. Chiara Daniele / Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico
But Greve is also located in the centre of the Chianti Classico DOCG , the most prestigious appellations wineries of the Chianti region, limited only to the terroir and history (known as early as the Thirteenth century) in the heart of the region. A perimeter defined in 1716 by the grand duke of Tuscany, in order to protect the local wine counterfeits, and that remains the first PDO in the world ! 7 000 ha of vines (grape variety sangiovese, mostly), producing red wines that are round, structured, elegant and powerful. Their emblem: the famous gallo nero (black rooster) placed on the neck of each bottle since 1924, the year of creation of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, certifying the authenticity. They are available in annata (vintage current), riserva (aged 2 years) and gran selezione (vinified with the best grapes and aged for 30 months), not to mention the version of vin santo (dessert wine, sweet and ambery). But around this terroir history if popular, the Chianti hills are still about 16,000 ha of vines on the seven hills boundary, answering to the appellation Chianti DOCG and also honorable !
Chianina, all the love that I have for you…Dario Cecchini, the butcher, the star of Panzano in Chianti. Marcelleria Cecchini
Dario Cecchini is the butcher-restaurateur who has projected into the light Panzano in Chianti , the other rural village perched on a hill a few kilometres away. The sixty jovial and cheeky, Dario has almost become a veterinarian ! But he chose the butcher shop as one enters in religion, supported by the eight generations of ancestors who preceded them in the profession. Every evening at the hour of the aperitif, which is called here ” The butcher crazy “, celebrates the great mass of the chianina, famous cattle breed emblematic of Tuscany. Wielding a bistecca alla fiorentina (steak) in each hand, Dario-the-magnificent plays to ” the butcher poet “, ranting gladly a few verses of Dante ! A show wacky – washed down with the Chianti gratis – that packs its customers and reinforces its role as a staunch defender of the beef and conventional meat quality. More seriously, Dario also intends to change the way we consume meat, without anything to spoil the sacrificed animal… next To the butcher shop, he orchestrates three restaurants and remains the initiator of Panzano Arte, a cultural journey that appeals to all the senses. Not so crazy that it the butcher.
Vineyard fêteLa vine around the lovely village of Radda in Chianti. Matteo Mescalchin / Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico
Taking the wheel for a few kilometres through the countryside enchanting, the next stop is called Radda in Chianti , a charming medieval village dotted with palaces and surrounded by an old wall, on the rim of his hill. Here, every year at the beginning of the month of June, is held Radda nel Bicchiere, THE great feast of wines of the Chianti area. The local winemakers are investing then the village and deploy stalls, tastings in a beautiful atmosphere playful. While the restaurants of the vintage concoct special menus to accompany the balloons… Another moment of joy and sharing around the ” red gold “, the feast of Pentecost to Castellina in Chianti famous for three days the first harvest in Chianti. Alternating tastings of local wines, concerts of traditional music, and feasting of all kinds ; the festivities ended with a holy mass with blessing of the wine-growing areas in the church of San Salvatore ! Castellina book as a proud fortress of the Xvth century with an interesting archaeological museum. And then this curious covered street, the via delle Volte , which file along the walls. While all around the hill extends the campaign gourmet Chianti, landscapes soft magnified by the warm light of the setting sun, a paradise for epicureans…
roadmap and good addresses
GO THERE
closer to that of Pisa, the international airport of Florence (www.aeroporto.firenze.it) is a good gateway to the Chianti.
Rent an old Alfa Romeo or a Fiat 500 from 1972 to Florence, in Chianti Classic Car (www.chianticlassiccar.com). From 245 euros per day.
– Office of tourism of Tuscany : www.visittuscany.com
– tourist Office of Florence : www.firenzeturismo.it
– tourist Office of Siena : www.terredisiena.it
– Info Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico : www.chianticlassico.com
– Info wine routes Chianti Classico DOCG : www.stradachianticlassico.it
Our four steps on the ChiantigianaPanzano is a medieval village in tuscany located between Florence and Siena. Its historic centre, perched on its hill, gives views of the hills and vineyards of Chianti. Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico
GREVE IN CHIANTI
tourist Office , piazza Matteotti, 10 ; phone : +55/8546299 ; www.comune.greve-in-chianti.fi.it
Market : rich in tasty products of the soil local, it is known since the Middle Ages (Saturday morning).
Castello di Verrazzano : 2 km from the town, one of the oldest wineries of the region, dating back to the Twelfth century. Around the old castle, – which was born in 1485 the discoverer of New York bay, Giovanni da Verrazzano – the 52 ha of vineyards, organic produce the prestigious Chianti Classico DOCG, produced in an old cellar picturesque (via Citille, 32A, località Greti ; phone : +55/854243 ; www.castelloverrazzano.com ; guided tour with tasting-from 21€).
Hotel Villa Bordoni : at 2.5 km from the village, a charming patrician villa in the Seventeenth century surrounded by the vineyard. The 4-star rooms, classic-style tuscan. Restaurant and beautiful outdoor pool with views of the hills of Chianti (via san Cresci, 31/32, località Mezzuola ; phone : 055/8546230 ; www.villabordoni.com ; 160 to 340 € per night).
Osteria Mangiando Mangiando : tasty tuscan cuisine of the season, taken directly from the terroir local. Room accent rustic or terrace under the arcades of the main square of the village (piazza Matteotti, 80 ; phone : +55/8546372 ; www.mangiandomangiando.it ; a la carte 30-50 €).
Antica Marcelleria Falorni : a real golden nugget that this bistro-deli, family-run authentic flavors and rustic (piazza Matteotti, 71 ; tel : +55/853029 ; www.falorni.it).
PANZANO IN CHIANTI
Antica Marcelleria Cecchini : this is the butchery of the friend Dario, where every evening takes place a drink, festive, washed down with glasses of Chianti distributed free of charge ! An experience that continues in the adjoining Solociccia, serving tasty dishes of meat simmered dishes according to family recipes simple and often astonishing. Two-no, Dario Doc revisits the concept of fast food with its tasty burgers of chianina ; while the Officina della Bistecca is distinguished by its gargantuan menu around the bistecca alla fiorentina. Vegetarian Menus, open kitchens and the atmosphere very friendly around large tables bonus ! (via XX Luglio, 11 ; phone : +55/852020 ; www.dariocecchini.com ; burgers 10-20 €, menus 30-50 € ; reductions for children ; booking is essential).
RADDA IN CHIANTI
tourist Office piazza del Castello, 1 ; phone : +577/738494 ; www.comune.radda-in-chianti.si.it.
Hotel Villa Campomaggio : beautiful rooms 4-star classic and muted, in an elegant villa of the Eighteenth century, planted in the vineyards at 5 km from the town. Spa, outdoor round pool, garden and panoramic terraces on the campaign (strada provinciale 2bis, località Campomaggio ; phone : +577/738981 ; www.hotelvillacampomaggio.it ; night between 110 € and 240 €).
Osteria The Panzanelle : 5 km Radda, excellent campaign table simmering in a kitchen of tradition, driven by fresh local produce and tasty grilled meats (località Lucarelli, 29 ; phone : 0577/533511 ; www.lepanzanelle.it ; a la carte 30-50 €).
CASTELLINA IN CHIANTI
tourist Office : via Ferruccio, 40 ; phone : +577/741392 ; www.terredisiena.it
Hotel Locanda le Piazze : 6 km from Castellina, old farm of the Sixteenth century, planted on a hill in the middle of the vineyards – home of 4-star rooms with modern style quiet. Gardens and outdoor swimming pool in the olive grove. Beautiful charming place, lined with one of the best tables of the region, the ” Tavola di Guido (località Le Piazze, 41 ; tel : +577/743192 ; www.locandalepiazze.com ; from 205 € per night ; menu 70 €, 100 € with wine).
Agriturismo Castello La Leccia : 2 km from Castellina, it is a medieval hamlet perched on a hill around its castle. The 4-star rooms, elegant and modern, as of ancient beams. Superb infinity swimming pool with panoramic views of the countryside greedy. A charming address, where one student also wine (località La Leccia ; phone : +577/743148 ; www.castellolaleccia.com ; from 260 € per night).
Ristorante Albergaccio di Castellina : excellent table of head, which revisits the classic tuscan tradition without ever losing sight of the tradition (via Fiorentina, 59 ; phone : +577/741042 ; www.ristorantealbergaccio.com ; a la carte 60-80 €).
Castello di Fonterutoli : large family estate, known since the Fifteenth century. In all, 117 ha of vineyards bio – 21 ha, around the historic castle – producing wonderful Chianti Classico DOCG and the excellent Toscana IGT, vinified in a stunning modern winery and design (località Fonterutoli ; phone : +577/741385 ; www.mazzei.it ; tour and tasting from 25 €).
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