Gault-Millau named for the first time, a Duo of “chef of the year”: John King and Jan-Philipp Berner from the soil’ringhof on the island of Sylt. The General of the kitchen block has abdicated, however, the romantic cult of Genius, there are still.

Franz Kotteder

Often the New Yes is just beginning in the province. On Saturday, for example, at a party for a few Hundred guests in Beuerbach, a village near Landsberg, West of Munich. There, the “Büffelhof”, where Steffen Schwencke began more than 20 years ago in order to breed of Italian water Buffalo, for the first time in Germany. And he opened a Restaurant on the farm, he handed over now at the Feast to his son, Valentin. Has learned to cook and Great in front of the Local: He wants to move up in the gourmet League. But not alone, but together with three friends, who have learned how he himself partly in a stars local. The kitchen Quartet, the brings actually been Impressive on the table, is called as a rock group: The Valvs, by the initial letter of your first name, Valentin, Amelie, Lucas and Vuong.

In the current German edition of the gourmet guide Gault & Millau, which will appear this Monday (ZS Verlag, 768 pages, $ 3.99), and are not represented by the four of course. But much of what they’re up to, as the Trend is already foreseeable. The restaurant testers voted this year for the first time, a Duo of “chef of the year”, the most prestigious award of this guide. John King and Jan-Philipp Berner from the soil’ringhof on the island of Sylt have received the coveted award. King, 55, has only transferred a few months ago, the actual line of his kitchen to Berne, 30,, without, therefore, to withdraw. The award is also a Statement for the Team spirit, because the Gault & Millau editorial praised as “harmonious and collegial” cooperation of the two works. King himself says: “When I got the call that we are chef of the year, I was totally happy. What Better way would have been to us can not happen at all.”

Bavarian family recipe

breast of duck with Plum Ragout and Gnocchi

To this recipe by our chef’s grandmother Josefa inspire. A tip for the poultry purchase he also.

the King Betper speaks of a perfect symbiosis of what brought Berner to New, “and what we have worked for more than 18 years of age”. The soel’ringhof live by all employees, he says, you have to give the Team space, so that it could grow. Meanwhile, the guests would see themselves the same way, which used to come only because of the Name of King.

Now the General of the kitchen block, the drives flights to his Brigade, with the harsh commands to the new height has abdicated, been available for some time. The sound has become binding in the restaurant kitchens, and also because of shortage of staff: Who wants to be for mostly lousy pay and the stress working in the evening hours together diving? But the romantic cult of Genius, as embodied by the sole responsible Chef de cuisine there. Even if all the leaders stress constantly how important the Team for their fame.

icing on the cake of creams and Froth and tiny herbal leaves

This is not different, because many of the plates are leaves true equipment / messy from the icing of creams and Froth and tiny Herbs, and must be arranged with the Pipette and tweezers and for that reason alone, larger groups of chefs employ. The Gault & Millau notes that this material is likely to have reached the battle in the meantime its peak, because the guests wanted it to be increasingly looser. Long ago they put in the top restaurants out the stiff table cloths, but found the fun of the pleasure in the foreground. At the same time, but the gourmet Bible is also a great promoter of the Traditional, if you read some of the reviews. “Typically, a main course such as veal, peas & kamebishi soy 10y’,” for example, to the Berlin chef Tim Raue, “the meat from the calf ridge is delicately braised, but fibers such as the Pulled Pork, it is in a shiny mirror made of soy sauce that is aged for ten years in cedar barrels, and Chili to the already boiling”. Whether such an almost mania-generated specialization fear of the unknown reduces?

Also in terms of the score, the new German Gault & Millau again close to the culinary Establishment. To 19.5 of 20 possible points, to get the same eight Restaurants in the past year, among Germany’s top chefs, Tim Raue, Christian Bau, Sven Elverfeld, Klaus Erfort and Christian Jürgens in order, among other things. Even with the 19 points, did nothing, only 18 points, there are new additions. In addition to the “chef of the year”-a Duo that, for example, the “newcomer of the year”, Daniel schimko witsch from L. A. Jordan is in the Pfalz, Deidesheim.

as strong as ever on the Trend for cooking with regional products in the top kitchen. Also because Johannes King has already set 2004 sign, they said in the soel’ringhof: “We use fish, in the South of Hamburg for a swim.” And how he keeps cramming it with local water, the Beuerbacher there namely a cooperation with a Büffelhof in the North of Germany? As the chef of the year laughs and says: “If the product is very good, we would use that for sure. But a focus would not be with us.”