When Sean Villanueva O’joins Driscoll in a wall, then always with the flute. The Belgian is not only one of the world’s best climbers, but also a talented musician. “I have you always. Music gives me energy and a good Ambiance.” This summer, sounded his serene flute at the foot of the Eiger North wall. Together with the Swiss Roger Schäli and Nina Caprez Sean Villanueva O opened’Driscoll, a new Route through the right wall part of the so-called Geneva pillar.
Who is looking for a way to the top, you have to be on the big climbing difficulty focus. Long ago, the North wall of the Eiger has also become the scene of the modern free climbing, not after the summit is aiming for, but according to the aesthetic and challenging line. In the last few years has been climbed, especially in the right-hand wall part of the lot, while the classic Heckmair Route in the Winter is when it is held in place by snow and ice.
In Ground-up style worked for the Team at the Geneva pillar is high – so classic coming from below, always the best way of searching without the first over the wall by ropes. So as in 1938, the first to climb the Heckmair-Route. Schäli stresses that he is doing all his first ascents in this style, but particularly on the Eiger for the glory thing. “We are a strong Team, especially on the mood, it is,” says Schäli. Let you should be, there is a need for the same sense of humour in the group to defy the seriousness of the Eiger. Sean’s flute music contributes to the looseness, however, provisionally for the last Time.
sunset on the wall walk. Photo: Severin Karrer
first, the first length of rope waiting, becoming increasingly steep limestone plate. In wide intervals, the first sensing bolts are stuck, still Schälis in the previous year. The mean distance falls into the rope when the force is chosen in the arms wears off or the wrong movement sequence. Usually, it is not only up, back to climb, given the high difficulty of it.
The wall is getting steeper, passes time in a compact limestone, which looks like sprayed concrete. Then again by the orange glowing areas, which are structured and generous, but also fragile Rock. Each Meter is new territory.
A precedes, while the other two hang on the Stand and secure it. “These two worlds could not be more opposite,” says Caprez. “Because you’re worry-free in the middle of the wall, around look down to Grindelwald or blödelst. You’re in the Lead, is ready funny. Since you’re fully focused. You don’t know what is expected of you, whether you are in a cul-de-SAC climbing. You have to read the Rock and hope that you really antizipi in the first place.”
Nina Caprez and Sean Villanueva O’driscoll celebrate the exit. Photo: Severin Karrer
Once Nina Caprez climbs far above the last hook along a crack, the lost in a repellent rock armour. “Look”, tells the other two, hanging about thirty feet below her. With his last strength, you can stabilize yourself by doing your feet high on friction. Then you are done with one Hand and a metal claw from the strap, you can attach them to a tiny rock edge and carefully clean set.
the auxiliary leash, she pulls the drill, drill a 10 mm hole and pure hammering a bolt anchor. “It was important for us to put as few hooks as possible,” she explains afterwards. This is not the most efficient, but also meant that any repeaters must be proficient in the climbing difficulty is mandatory.
Harmless or fatal
A fall in the rope can be as harmless as prove to be fatal – for example, if you strike unlucky on the wall. “We all have friends that have left your life, also on the Eiger,” says Nina. You should always be able to the consequences of a fall, to estimate and on the basis of which to decide how much you can go to the Limit.
On the last day, just before the wall flattens and on the West flank of the ends, breaks in a Storm. A rock niche offers just enough protection against Hailstones, and to retreat to pre-flying stones. “It is a strange mood,” says Sean Villanueva O’driscoll afterwards. “On the one hand, the Kleine Scheidegg is located only a stone’s throw away, the sounds penetrate up to us. But up here you’re completely in the Wilderness with all of its laws.”
After three days, the three get off on the West flank. Normally, Villanueva O’celebrates Driscoll such a Moment with a Serenade. But then the mishap happens: his beloved flute slips from his jacket pocket and crashes in the direction of Grindelwald.
“Merci La Vie” is the Name of the new and probably the most difficult Route on the Eiger. Nina Caprez explains: “We are aware that it is not, of course, is, again, safe and reach the bottom.”
Created: 26.09.2019, 18:13 PM
