Three “Michelin”stars. For chefs, so it was so far, the highest of all feelings. The top Italian chef Massimo Bottura tells, of the receipt of this award to have him moved to tears. And, incidentally, even more moving than his appointment as “chef of the year” by the list “50 Best Restaurants”.

as a guest you could be long – once again, the past is chosen deliberately – to the restaurant guide left, appeared in 1900, for the first time as a workshop list for automobilists: Local with stars had always their price, guaranteed maximum enjoyment possible.

Or to say it in the language of the publisher: get Three stars unique restaurants that are “worth the trip”. Two stars are awarded, if the kitchen performance “worthy of a detour”; one star is it for “very good cuisine”. So simple, the “Michelin”System. The reviews are not justified; if necessary, the book loses a few words about what specialty you should definitely try.

rated Restaurant that was not yet opened

In the brevity is the soul of wit, you are trying to say. But as much as some Gourmets appreciate the waiver of Chi-Chi, so much so it makes the gastro guide is also vulnerable.

And that’s why it seems a lot has been skewed to be in the Michelin Firmament: if you are Gourmets, the question is why the Noma in Copenhagen, the world’s almost only positive media gets an echo, but only two stars in the Michelin guide. Also often heard: the accusation that you can’t lose three stars. Some of the Local is no longer on the height, decorates his door but continued with the triumvirate.

Not least of all, accidents happened again and again. In 2005, the Guide came in for criticism, because he rated the Benelux countries, a Brussels Restaurant that was not opened when Appear.

“Now, a new Wind is blowing.”Gwendal Poullennec, the “Guide Michelin”-Chef

the harm All this talk to a gastro guide, of which the highest should be Well credibility massively. Especially these days, where every Influencerin, every food blogger published a separate opinion of a Restaurant. And as if this culinary cacophony wasn’t enough, the mentioned 50-Best list (“San-Pellegrino-list”), and the streaming service Netflix with his series “Chef’s Table” immensely successful – you fill in a Locally at least as reliable as the “Guide Michelin”. What the Russian investors intend to take in the future, competitors “Gault Millau” in France, at least under their wing, don’t know it yet.

How does the “Michelin Guide” of the vibration output values? As this week it became known, takes the Guide of the chef, Marc Haeberlin of the Auberge de l’ill in the Alsatian town of Illhaeusern, since a record-breaking 51 years, with a three-star listed, the maximum award. As well as the renowned wild herbs chef Marc Veyrat. “Now a new Wind is blowing”, the French “Guide Michelin”-Boss Gwendal Poullennec quote.

Whether this surprising the restaurant list think makes u-turn worthy? And the criticism in culinary circles, reduces? At least in the short term, the opposite will be the case. Even if Poullennec tried to direct the attention of the readership to the fact that in the future more women should be taken into account. This would be necessary anyway, but less than one in twenty Local stars in France, currently, of a female “boss”.

Who pays for the bill himself, as “Michelin”inspectors do, may Express his judgment independently.

the action, Sébastien Bras from the massif Central in the Guide, with two stars, although he actually wants to be no light at the “Michelin”-heaven, as he announced a few months ago. is already a The chef who has, in part, also benefits from the reputation of his previous three stars, one must retort: Who is paying the bill himself, as “Michelin”inspectors do, may Express his judgment independently.

In Switzerland, appears to be the next “the Michelin Guide”, the week after next. With large Surprises no one expects. Remains only the question of whether this is positive or negative for the reputation of the leader in this country.

(editing Tamedia)

Created: 24.01.2019, 19:09 PM